Start by answering three critical questions:
• How far will you ride? (daily commute vs. weekend trips)
• Where will you ride? (city streets, trails, highways)
• What legal requirements are you willing to accept? (license, registration, insurance)
Legal requirements vary by vehicle type:
• Class 1 e-bikes: No license or registration
• Class 3 e-bikes: May require a license in some states
• Dirt bikes: Typically require a motorcycle license
• Electric motorcycles: Always require licensing
Use our vehicle classifier to discover which category matches your needs and your state's regulations.
E-bikes have pedals and a motor up to 750W, capped at 20–28 mph depending on class. Most accessible option for commuting and recreation—most require no license or registration.
Electric motorcycles are motorized bikes (40+ mph) that require:
• Motorcycle license
• Title
• Registration
• Insurance (all states)
Mopeds sit between e-bikes and motorcycles, typically 28–40 mph with pedals or a platform. Legal requirements vary by state—some treat them like bicycles, others like motorcycles.
Dirt bikes (including electric dirt bikes) are designed for off-road use and are not street legal by default. They can be titled and registered through specialized services like Dirt Legal, but require a motorcycle license for road use.
Key takeaway: The category determines your legal obligations. Always verify your local regulations before purchasing.
E-bike prices range from $500 to $5,000+, but your budget should match your intended use, not just the price tag.
$500–$1,500: Entry-level commuters with basic components. Good for casual riders and short distances (under 15 miles/day).
$1,500–$2,500: Mid-range bikes with solid motors (500W), reliable batteries (500–750Wh), and proven support. This is the "sweet spot" for most first-time buyers—good value without unnecessary premium features.
$2,500–$4,000: Premium components, longer-lasting batteries, and better build quality. Worth considering if you'll ride daily in challenging terrain.
$4,000+: Specialty bikes (cargo, off-road, full-suspension) with high-end parts. Only necessary for specific use cases.
Reality check: The best investment isn't the cheapest bike—it's the one you'll actually ride. A $2,000 e-bike ridden 5 days a week beats a $4,000 bike that sits in the garage.
Hub-drive motors (in the wheel) are simpler, cheaper, and require minimal maintenance. They're great for flat terrain and casual commuting. The motor provides power directly without interacting with the bike's gears, so wear and tear on the drivetrain is predictable.
Mid-drive motors (at the pedals) sense your effort and feel more natural. They provide better hill-climbing torque and work efficiently with the bike's gears. However, they wear the chain faster and cost more because they're more complex.
Choose hub-drive if: You want simplicity, lower cost, and minimal maintenance. You ride on relatively flat terrain.
Choose mid-drive if: You'll tackle hills regularly, want a responsive ride, and don't mind periodic chain replacement. You want the motor to "feel" like it's helping your pedaling.
Most enthusiasts prefer mid-drive for the more intuitive experience, but hub-drive is the practical choice for budget-conscious commuters.
Battery capacity is measured in Watt-hours (Wh) and directly affects your range. More capacity = more distance per charge, but also more weight and cost.
250–400Wh: 15–30 miles of range. Lightweight and affordable. Suitable for urban commutes under 10 miles each way.
500–750Wh: 30–60 miles of range. The most popular choice. Handles most commuting and recreational riding without daily recharges.
1000Wh+: 60+ miles of range. Heavier and more expensive. Worth it if you're taking long weekend rides or commuting 50+ miles without access to charging.
Real-world range depends on:
• Terrain (hills reduce range significantly)
• Your weight
• Motor power
• Weather conditions
• Riding style (throttle-only vs. pedal-assist)
Pro tip: Always get more capacity than you think you need—batteries degrade over time. For most people, 500–750Wh strikes the right balance between range, weight, and price.
Both options have tradeoffs. Your choice depends on what you value: support network, warranty, or price.
Major brands (Trek, Specialized, Cannondale, Giant):
• Extensive dealer networks
• In-person service and trusted warranties
• Can test ride before buying
• Professional assembly included
• Prices 20–40% higher due to retailer markups
• Established support network
Direct-to-consumer brands (Rad Power Bikes, Aventon, Lectric):
• Sell directly to consumers (no middleman)
• 40–50% better value for comparable specs
• Fewer physical service locations
• Excellent phone and email support
• Assembly videos and straightforward part replacement
• You'll handle more maintenance yourself
Choose major brands if: You want local service, value convenience, and are willing to pay more. You prefer test-riding first.
Choose direct-to-consumer if: You want maximum value, don't mind online ordering, and are comfortable with basic maintenance (tire changes, brake adjustments).
Bottom line: For your first e-bike, a direct-to-consumer option typically offers better value. As you gain experience, you can explore specialty brands.
E-bike legal status varies by state, and some regulations are still evolving. Before purchasing, verify these requirements in your state and municipality:
For Class 1 & 2 E-Bikes: Do you need a license? Is registration required? Are there age restrictions? Where can you legally ride (streets, bike paths, trails)?
For Class 3 E-Bikes: Are they legal in your state? Some states restrict Class 3 to roads only, not bike paths. Do you need a license?
For Dirt Bikes, Mopeds & Motorcycles: Is registration required? Do you need a motorcycle or moped license? Is insurance mandatory? Are helmets required?
Where to check: Your state's Department of Motor Vehicles (DMV) website usually has the most current regulations. Local bike advocacy organizations can also provide clarity.
Important: This information changes. Always verify with your local authorities before purchasing. If a vehicle isn't street legal in your area, services like Dirt Legal can help with titling and registration for off-road vehicles.
Specs that actually matter:
Motor power (watts):
• 250W = minimum for true pedal assist
• 500W = handles most commuting
• 750W+ = tackles hills and cargo
• More power = more battery drain
Battery capacity (Wh) and range: Check the realistic range estimate, not the marketing "up to X miles." Real-world range is usually 60–80% of advertised.
Motor type (hub vs. mid-drive): Affects feel, maintenance, and hill performance (see previous question).
Build quality & frame material: Aluminum is standard. Carbon fiber is lighter but expensive. Look for reputable brands with good warranty.
Brake type: Hydraulic disc brakes are better than rim brakes, especially in wet conditions.
Marketing hype to ignore:
• Built-in Bluetooth displays (nice but not essential)
• Smartphone app integration (rarely adds real value)
• "Premium" aesthetics (form should follow function)
• Suspension forks (only necessary for mountain riding, not commuting)
• Fancy colors or graphics (doesn't affect performance)
Golden rule: A simple, well-built e-bike with solid motor, battery, and brakes will outlast a feature-rich bike with cheap components.