Pedal-assist (PAS) uses a cadence or torque sensor to detect when you're pedaling and automatically activates the motor to provide proportional assistance. The motor engages smoothly as you press down on the pedals, making it feel like your legs have suddenly become more powerful—not like the bike is doing the work for you.
Most e-bikes offer multiple PAS levels (typically 1-5), which you control via a handlebar display:
• Low setting: Provides subtle assistance that barely offsets the bike's weight—great for getting exercise
• High or "turbo" setting: Delivers significant power, making steep hills feel manageable
• Adjustability is key: You can choose to get a workout on a low setting, or cruise with minimal effort on a high setting
Key difference from throttle: PAS requires you to be actively pedaling. If you stop pedaling, the motor stops assisting. This is distinct from Class 2 bikes, which feature a throttle that can move the bike without any pedaling.
The three-class system, adopted by 36 states as of 2025, categorizes e-bikes by motor engagement type and top speed. Here's how they differ:
Class 1: Pedal-assist only (no throttle). Motor assistance cuts off at 20 mph. Allows access to all bike paths and trails where e-bikes are permitted. Requires no speedometer. Best for riders who want traditional cycling with a boost.
Class 2: Throttle-only OR pedal-assist (both allowed). Motor assistance cuts off at 20 mph. Similar trail access to Class 1 in most states. Does NOT require a speedometer. Best for riders who want the option to move without pedaling or for riders with physical limitations.
Class 3: Pedal-assist only (no throttle as of 2025). Motor assistance cuts off at 28 mph. REQUIRES a visible speedometer. Often restricted to roads and streets—typically not allowed on dedicated bike paths or trails. Best for commuters who want faster speeds on roads.
Important 2025 update (California SB-1271): California and other states are clarifying throttle rules: Class 1 and 3 cannot have throttles; only Class 2 can. This affects which bike you can legally ride on certain paths.
Choose based on your use case: If trails are your priority, Class 1 gives maximum access. If you want throttle convenience, Class 2 is your option. If you're commuting on roads and want faster speeds, Class 3 is designed for that.
All three classes—Class 1, 2, and 3—are federally permitted to have motors up to 750W (1 horsepower). The motor power limit is the same across all classes.
Important: The distinction between classes is NOT about power; it's about:
• Motor engagement type (pedal-assist vs. throttle)
• Top speed limits (20 mph for Class 1 & 2; 28 mph for Class 3)
Individual states may impose stricter limits than the federal 750W maximum, so check your local regulations. A 750W motor can feel gentle and efficient when paired with a low-speed limiter, or more aggressive when paired with a higher limiter.
Important note: E-bikes that can be modified to exceed the 750W power limit are no longer classified as e-bikes and may be treated as motorcycles or mopeds, requiring licensing and registration.
No. In all 36 states using the three-class system, Class 3 e-bikes do NOT require a driver's license, state registration, or insurance—just like Class 1 and Class 2. E-bikes remain classified as bicycles, not motor vehicles, regardless of class.
However, some states have specific age minimums for Class 3 riders. As of 2025, most states require Class 3 riders to be at least 16 years old (though Oregon and Washington lowered this to 15). Age requirements vary, so check your local regulations.
Class 3 bikes must display a visible label showing the class, top speed (28 mph), and motor wattage, but no formal registration is required in three-class states.
E-bikes require standard bicycle maintenance plus additional battery and electrical system care.
Regular bicycle maintenance:
• Chain lubrication
• Brake adjustments
• Tire pressure checks
• Drivetrain care
Battery maintenance: Store in cool, dry conditions and avoid extreme temperatures (below 32°F or above 104°F). Charge regularly, even during off-season storage. Most e-bike batteries last 3-5 years or 500-1,000 charge cycles before capacity degrades significantly.
Motor and electrical system: Have the motor, controller, and wiring inspected annually by a qualified e-bike mechanic. Most manufacturers provide detailed maintenance guides specific to their systems.
Common wear items:
• Brake pads (wear faster due to added weight)
• Chains (mid-drive motors increase drivetrain wear)
Real-world lifespan: With proper maintenance, an e-bike can last 7-10 years. The battery is typically the first component needing replacement, costing $400-$1,000 depending on capacity.
Hub-drive motors are built into the wheel (front or rear). Key characteristics:
• Simpler and cheaper to manufacture
• Require minimal maintenance
• Provide consistent, predictable power delivery
• Motor doesn't interact with the bike's gears
• Best for flat terrain and casual commuting
Mid-drive motors are located at the pedals and work through the bike's gearing system. Key characteristics:
• Provide better hill-climbing torque
• Feel more natural (assistance is proportional to your pedaling effort)
• More efficient on varied terrain
• Wear the chain faster
• Cost more due to increased mechanical complexity
Choose hub-drive if: You want simplicity, lower cost, and minimal maintenance for flat urban riding.
Choose mid-drive if: You'll tackle hills regularly, want responsive assistance tied to your effort, and don't mind periodic chain replacement.